Bangkok, Thailand

The decision to visit Southeast Asia was an easy one. Once we were in the neighborhood (Australia) and had time to kill (waiting out the cyclone season), why not? We are on a 3 year voyage to circumnavigate the globe, and to experience as many cultures as we can pack in to that amount of time.

A 24 hour layover in Sydney gave us a brief taste of that city. We explored the Cremorne section which is across the harbor from the Opera House and the Botanic Gardens; just enough to make us want to come back in March when we finish a three week tour of New Zealand. We did manage to get tickets to a Handel opera then, so our return is assured.

Jon, managing our airport details, realized the past year was the longest time he'd gone without flying in his adult life. So after a 9 hour flight from Sydney, we arrived in Bangkok to a four hour time difference and a big case of jet lag. A new airport train makes getting into the city easy, but once at the end of the line, we got our first taste of negotiating a taxi without the benefit of speaking Thai. After a long ride to the wrong Marriott hotel at 1 in the morning, we finally made it to the "right" Marriott. Thankfully, Jon cashed in some of his many hotel points earned during years of business travel for a couple of nights in a nice hotel----our first stay off the boat in nearly a year, and a gentle way to ease our transition into congested Bangkok.

The next morning, we ate a breakfast of kebabs from street vendors and Jon got his introduction into the economics of Coca Cola pricing.

Headed to the premier tourist site of the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew (royal temples), we took a circuitious route---the new Sky Train (an above ground metro that saves hours of commute time in the congested traffic) to a southern pier on the Chao Phraya River to pick up a river ferry, made famous in the James Bond movie "The Man With The Golden Gun," to head up river to the Palace and Temples. The river was full of ferries going as fast as they could, only to stop as hard as they could at the closely spaced stops. In the middle of the river, tugs pulled barge trains with as many as 6 barges each ... It wasn't quite James Bond action, but Jon took more than a few close looks as the ferry's stern broached the docks. It wasn't what you'd call a romantic boat ride; the river is quite brown, is constantly churning and is full of floating debris. But this is a traditional way of getting around the city, as it has canals as well as the Chao Phraya. From sky train to river ferry; this was our first experience of the new and modern simultaneously overlapping the old and traditional that would come to define our impressions of Bangkok.

The Grand Palace and Temples were a good introduction to modern Thai history. Founded the same year as the currenty dynasty, 1782, the grounds include more than 100 buildings and their ornateness and specifically Thai architecture cannot help but contast with the ordinary nature of everything else--much like the gigantic cathedrals with magnificant stained glass windows in Europe have endured centuries while the hovels of the local peasantry disappear within generations. Having only seen them in photos, it was interesting to see just how small the mosaic tiles are that cover most of the temples and shrines.

We got a glimpse of the Emerald Buddah (which is either jade or jasper, not emerald), but his temple was closed for an ordination ceremony for new Buddist monks. Our guide was told that 150 new monks were being ordained that day to help pray for the health of the King. His Majesty Bhumibol, the longest reigning monarch in the world, is in his eighties and is in ill health.

The king and Thai Buddism are closely intertwined and neither are to be insulted nor disrespected. Not far from the walls of the Palace and Temples is one of the largest amulet markets in the world. Stalls and stalls covering several blocks sell good luck charms, and necklace cases to house them in.  We read that they are quite popular among monks and people who have risky jobs, but given the market, it seems like every Thai could have several amulets for good luck. 

The following day was Saturday, when the weekend market at Chatuchak Park opens.  It is among one of the largest open air markets in the world.  Jon couldn't face the crowded stalls without a cup of java.  Armed with his caffine fix, and me with a diet coke, Jon and I spent four hours wading through people and stalls.  To me, at least 90% of the goods fell into the category of what Nancy Griffith calls, "cheap, unnecessary, plastic objects."  In other words, lots of tchotchkis.  There were also lots of inexpensive clothes and shoes, but for the sake of me, I couldn't imagine where all this stuff could possible go.

The quilter in me was naturally drawn to the textiles.  Thai silk is beautiful and has its own distinguishing patterns.  With Jon's help, I managed to negotiate for a few tablecloths that I will make into a quilt when I get back home. 

I guess what was hard to reconcile was the quiet, calm renunciation of material goods in the Buddist faith with the reality of mass produced goods sold in thousands of stalls on a hundred acres of land in northern Bangkok.  The hustle for the almighy Baht (Thai currency) is constant and, outside the market, the taxis and tuk-tuks keep up the pressure to part you with your money.  Here, Ronald McDonald demonstrates what I am trying to convey; the ubiquitous hamburger chain's symbol welcomes his guests in the traditional Thai manner, the wai, a prayer-like gesture with the palms together.

[N.B.  Posted by Jennifer on Jon's account.