One
of the nice things about the Internet for sailors--as for any group of
similarly interested people--is that it provides a larger community than one
would otherwise experience if one relied solely on direct personal contact. Jon and I use it regularly for weather
report. Two important sites that
have proven to be a treasure of information and support are Cruisers Forum and
Noonsite.
In
addition, we have a Ham Radio, which enables us to stay in regular touch with
fellow boats as we make long ocean passages. On the recent passage from Mauritius to South
Africa, we were greatly assisted by two South African Ham Radio networks, which
gave us daily sea condition and weather reports and stayed in touch with us to
make sure all was well on board.
Our Ham Radio has a modem (remember those old days before DSL and Fiber
Optics?) that encodes text into radio frequency and allows us to send brief
emails. We do have a VHF radio,
but that only works within line of sight of our antenna, which is about 65 feet
high. And for emergencies, we have
a satellite phone.
Our most recent passage was marked by light winds, contrary currents, and only the occasional rough sea and brisk winds -- we were fortunate in that regard, since the passage from Mauritius to South Africa can be tough. Nonetheless, we had our days of 20+ knot winds and triple-reefed mainsails, and we were glad to have had Keith and Geert along to share the watchkeeping load. We saw many other ships, but no sail boats.
So
while at sea, yes, we are alone, but we can remain connected. Once we make landfall, we have many
tasks, but we make sure to stay in touch with our friends who are still at sea and
keep informed about sailing news.
Checking Noonsite, shortly after we arrived, Jon found six news items
worthy of our attention:
Item
One: A woman who was sailing alone
on her boat off the coast of Corsica in the Mediterranean and fell off her
boat. She was taking a pee off the
side of her boat (which guys do all the time, but I myself have yet to try) and
was not wearing her harness, and fell in.
Fortunately for her, she had her waterproof cell phone in her hand and
managed to call her mother and help was sent. I imagine her boat was also rescued, but as for me, I will
continue to do my business in what sailors refer to as “The Head.”
Item
Two: A sailboat making an Atlantic
crossing hit “something” and sank.
The captain suspects a container, but cannot confirm what hit his
boat. Containers, for those who
don’t know, are those large metal boxes stacked on cargo ships. In heavy seas, they can fall off and
float dangerously in the seas, unlit, too low for radar, invisible at night. They are supposed to be perforated so
that they will sink, but that is not always the case. We sailors know they are a small risk, but it is not one we
can do anything about at night and so we try not to think too much about the
risk of hitting one and sinking. Do
we have a choice?
Item
Three: An Australian couple was rescued in the Indian Ocean. The Indian Coast Guard picked up their
distress signal after their boat lost power and sail and they were picked up by
a cargo ship.
Item
Four: A 23 foot sailboat carrying
5 scientists is missing off the north coast of Papua New Guinea (an island
country just north of northeastern Australia), and piracy is suspected. According to village information, 3
males are believed to have been killed and 2 women are being held hostage. Wow. Somali pirates are infamous for their acts of treachery
across the northern Indian Ocean.
Piracy is also a problem off the west coast of central Africa and sometimes
in the Caribbean Sea. But Papua
New Guinea? We were just sailing
there, albeit off the south coast.
Item
Five: Cruisers sailing in the
northern Pacific Ocean have been issued a warning to be on the lookout for
floating debris from the tsunami and earthquake off northern Japan last spring. All that stuff that got dislodged and
floated out to sea got picked up by currents and is now drifting in the
northern Pacific. Some items might
be big, and no less a danger to sailboats than containers.
Item
Six: Perhaps most shocking to us
was the news that a German sailor who was visiting Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas
is now believed to be the victim of an act of cannibalism. Charred human remains and clothing were
found in a remote valley after a search and investigation were initiated
following the sailor’s disappearance.
Yes, we visited Nuku Hiva for about a week in May 2010. It is where Jon got his tattoo. It is where we went to an isolated bay
to stay for a few days. Piracy,
dangerous containers, and the risks of peeing off a moving boat are not unknown
risks to modern sailors. Cannibalism is.
Most of us cruising those waters believed it to be a historical
curiosity only; done away with several generations ago.
Six
relevant sailing incidents in one post-passage visit to the internet. That was unusual and a lot to
absorb. So it was even more
shocking, to check our Ham Radio email that evening, after being ashore four
days, and to learn from one of our fellow cruisers still at sea that another
sailboat had sunk off the coast of Madagascar. Wizard, a South African mono hull that we met in the Bali
marina, was 30 miles away from our friends, sailing at 7 knots in 12-foot
swells, and was supposed, but failed, to make radio contract between 4 and 6 am
with our friends on November 4. The Ham Radio network subsequently reported that the
boat sank and that all five crew had been rescued.
We
later learned that Wizard hit a container around 4:30 in the morning and
quickly began taking on water.
They deployed their life raft, triggered their EPIRB (Emergency
Satellite Beacon) and spent 7 hours adrift before being rescued by redirected
cargo vessel. The details are in
this newspaper article.
Needless
to say, we are grateful that our friends on Wizard were unharmed and rescued, but it is still
shocking news to hear of a boat being lost. Our sailboats are our home, our companion in the challenge,
and, as our own boat’s name ile de Grace implies, our “island” in the sea.
This
was far too close to home for any sort of emotional detachment. Our friends, who are still underway in
some of the more difficult sailing waters on the planet, are constantly on our
minds. We are grateful we can stay
in touch with them. We are
grateful for the Ham operators who stay in touch with us. We are grateful for the rescue
operators who respond to EPIRB signals.
Sailing
is still safer than driving on Interstate 95. But we have been reminded that it is not risk free and keeping
safety first is always the better part of valor. We’ll be careful out there.
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